Discovering Sweden's stylish metropolis Malmo by kayak


Malmo

Stortorget sq. in Malmo’s Outdated City is lined with stately buildings

Whereas metropolis excursions don’t normally have a strict costume code, the arctic waters and on this event a brand new kayak tour of the town, imply rubber is the best way ahead.

I squeeze my neoprene-swathed hips into the stubby yellow kayak and launch myself, somewhat unceremoniously, into the icy shallows of the Baltic Sea.

To heat up beforehand, I’ve cycled right down to Ribersborgsstranden, a mile-long stretch of white sand seashore recognized regionally because the Malmo Riviera, the place I meet Ram Silwal, who runs kayaking excursions of the strait and the town’s canals.

After a fast briefing my information for the morning, Joakim, leads me right down to the water’s edge the place he bravely demonstrates an eskimo roll within the icy waters.

“It’s good for you!” he grins, shaking frosty water out of his hair.

I believe not, selecting as a substitute to bob gently up and down, craning my neck to see the total extent of the enduring Oresund Bridge.

As my oar slices by means of the clear waters of the Oresund strait, Joakim factors out the Ribersborgs Kallbadhus, an open-air pool perched on the finish of a wood pier.

This historic seawater bathhouse opened in 1898 and maintains the longstanding Nordic custom of nude bathing.

As I glide beneath the pier, I spot a pair of cheery, ruddy-cheeked pensioners with rolled-up towels, striding purposefully in direction of the pale inexperienced lido.

Tracey Davies kayaking
PH

Tracey Davies enjoys a kayak tour of the town’s canals and strait with views of the enduring Öresund

Though the pool is open all-year spherical, it’s particularly common in winter when courageous Swedes poach themselves in wood-fired saunas earlier than leaping into near-frozen waters.

From right here we paddle inland in direction of Gamla Staden, Malmo’s historic outdated quarter.

Compact and simple to discover on foot, the town’s clutch of medieval squares is full of Danish and German-style half-timbered, gabled buildings which evoke the identical attraction as Copenhagen or Hamburg.

Paddling previous the rouge-hued towers of Malmohus, the oldest renaissance fortress in Sweden, we head down in direction of the Western Harbour.

As soon as the location of Kockums shipyard, it’s now a sustainable housing improvement and Europe’s first carbon-neutral neighbourhood.

It’s additionally house to the town’s landmark tower, the Turning Torso (locals both find it irresistible or hate it ).

At 623ft excessive it’s Scandinavia’s tallest constructing and twists a full 90 levels from the underside to high.

Paddling behind the Torso, the canals stream out to sea and previous the harbour’s bleached-wood boardwalk, lined with cool bars and eating places which boast the very best views of the bridge.

I cycle again to the outdated city, the place I determine I’ve earned my first fika of the day; the Swedish custom of espresso and cake, which is religiously adhered to by locals.

Phrase on the bottom is Lilla Kafferosteriet on Baltzarsgatan is without doubt one of the greatest on the town.

Oresundsbron

The long-lasting Öresund Bridge

Run by espresso aficionado Filip Akerblom, who roasts his personal beans and bakes the very best cinnamon buns within the metropolis.

I work off the carb-overload with a cycle over to Davidshall, a classy quarter recognized for its classic clothes shops and labyrinth-style antiques emporiums flogging retro Scandinavian kitchenware for just a few kroner apiece.

It’s additionally house to a number of chi-chi bistros.

Malmo is quick turning into recognized for its gastro scene and Michelin awarded stars to a few eating places right here in 2015, together with Bloom within the Park, a classy no-menu joint headed up by Titti Qvarnstrom.

For dinner, I likelihood a uncommon desk at Vastergatan, an NYC-style neighbourhood restaurant presently making waves on the Malmo foodie scene.

Turning Torso

Malmo’s landmark tower, the Turning Torso

Like Bloom In The Park it has no menu and serves solely seasonal dishes decided by chef Olle Allenburg, who tonight serves up an incredible Nordic feast of steak tartare dusted with sesame seeds, soft-braised pig cheeks and heavenly lingonberry ice cream.

Following dinner, I head to the bars which line Stortorget and Lilla Torg, and easily can’t resist having a nightcap at B*****d, a hip (and let’s face it, somewhat thrillingly named) restaurant and late-night cocktail bar on Grasp Johansgatan. I

nside the darkish, cavernous bar, glamorous locals flock in for the natural sharing platters and creative cocktails, whereas us Brits, effectively me, take pleasure in a uncommon alternative to legitimately utter the phrase B*****d quite a bit.

No matter angle you witness it from, Malmo is a real treasure, full of Scandi attraction, good meals, and ultimate for a weekend break. Rubber outfits are completely elective.

THE KNOWLEDGE

easyJet (0330 365 5000/easyjet.com) supply return flights from numerous UK airports from £53.

Raddison Blu Malmo (0800 374 411/radissonblu.com) presents doubles from £98 per evening (two sharing), B&B.

Ram’s kayaking excursions (dialling from the UK: 00 46 72 047 77 25/ramsilwal.com).

£70 for 3 hours,

Malmo tourism: malmo.com.



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