French Alps: On top of things on the virgin snow


Skiers get pleasure from powder-perfect circumstances (Picture:

YOU ARE the kamikaze,” our ski teacher Fred proclaimed with a wry smile, “you just like the velocity!” He was proper, we had solely arrived within the snowy French village of Plan-Peisey three days earlier than, however one thing in me had already clicked. Streaming down my first intermediate blue run, I might hear the crunch of the contemporary snow beneath my skis because the dense forest of tree-lined slopes flashed previous, the wind bringing tears to my eyes. Within the distance, Mont Blanc emerged from behind a curtain of fog within the distance and a sprawl of idyllic French cities had been dotted throughout the valley flooring in entrance of me.

There was a second of readability, a sudden shuddering realisation that I had already missed out on years of powder-perfect pistes and mountain adventures, that I might eternally yearn for the impact of this snow-laden utopia within the French Alps.

My first foray into snowboarding had taken us to the Paradiski area, with 264 miles of pistes throughout the Les Arcs and La Plagne ski ranges. The realm has vigorous resorts, from Arc 2000 with an Ibizaesque get together scene, and Arc 1950, the “Disneyland of the Alps”, a theme park caricature of an alpine village.

However in a quiet nook of Les Arcs the sleepy village of Plan Peisey is a hidden gem. That includes conventional chalet-style lodging and picturesque alpine atmosphere, it’s scenic and charming, tucked into the mountainside at a snow-reliable top of 5,400ft. Our heat and pleasant British hosts, Sue and Simon, welcomed us into Ski Beat’s Chalet Bayona, a comfortable lodge with loads of area for 14 folks to really feel proper at residence.

Our room had a west-facing balcony providing unbelievable views of the La Plagne ski vary and the Vanoise Categorical cable automotive that connects it to Les Arcs.

Count on to be handled to sizzling breakfasts, afternoon tea and glorious three-course dinners. With a sauna and loads of wine along with your night meal, the expertise is right for capping off a day’s snowboarding, even when it makes getting up for a 9am lesson more durable.


Within the distance, Mont Blanc emerged from behind a curtain of fog within the distance (Picture: John Fitzpatrick

Simply minutes from the chalet’s entrance door is the assembly level for classes with the ESF ski faculty. Our instructor, the rugged Fred, grew up within the village and is aware of the world just like the again of his glove.

His English is sort of excellent and he made us really feel at residence immediately with samples of scrumptious native Beaufort cheese.

As newcomers, merely clipping into the skis was a problem on day one. After studying to face got here the humbling expertise of taking the ski carry for the primary time, with out skis – the final word signal that you would be able to’t be trusted round different folks.

Within the protected studying space on the high of the carry there was loads of tumbling and terrifying experiences as hordes of tiny French youngsters whizzed previous with out concern.

As the times went on we progressed with shocking ease – little question as a consequence of Fred’s endurance and expertise – and after our each day two-hour classes we’d discover the mountain and bars dotted across the pistes, the place you may get pleasure from an area Mont Blanc beer or chocolat chaud with cream.


Get pleasure from a superb meal with an ideal view (Picture: John Fitzpatrick)

The ski lifts shut round four.30pm, however that’s when the world involves life otherwise because the notorious après-ski kicks in. We discovered an extremely acquainted expertise within the Bar Mont Blanc, a vigorous pub providing reside soccer, glorious bands and Taking The Piste comedy nights.

There’s loads of scrumptious Savoyard delicacies in Peisey and the close by village of Vallandry – primarily crusty baguettes, fondue and tartiflette – a dish of potatoes, reblochon cheese, bacon and cream. Vallandry is a 10-minute stroll away from the chalet and its excessive avenue is the best place for getting presents or native delicacies.

The jewel in Vallandry’s crown nonetheless is the Palace du Chocolat, the place chocolate fills each inch of the store.

There was extra to see, however with classes within the morning, snowboarding within the afternoon and exploring at night time, there simply wasn’t time.


There’s a nice number of meals to be tasted (Picture: John Fitzpatrick

SO IT WAS with heavy hearts that we entered our ultimate day on the slopes. After bonding over the week, there was a sense of real heat in our group when Fred provided to take us on a five-hour lesson – the additional three hours free – to point out us extra of the mountain.

From one of many highest factors at 10,000ft, we went on a sequence of blue runs that confirmed us dramatic vistas and gave us a glimpse of the sheer scale of the world.

We stopped on the slope-side Chalets de l’Arc restaurant for a conventional meal of bread crammed with ham, cheese and sausage.

Afterwards, I savoured each second of that ultimate run again to the village, standing up straighter to soak up the views from the mountains above to the ocean of slopes under.

And with a end like that, how might we ever resist going again? I simply hope Fred has loads of that cheese left.


Ski Beat (01273 855 100/ provides seven nights at Chalet Bayona, Les Arcs from £609pp (two sharing), full board. Worth contains return flights from Gatwick to Geneva and transfers. Les Arcs tourism:

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