San Sebastian: Discover Spain's rugged north coast with vineyards, seashores and tapas

San Sebastian

San Sebastian is positioned within the coronary heart of the Basque area on Spain’s rugged northern coast

Consuming is nearly a faith round right here,” stated our information Marina, as we stood on the bar and devoured one more scrumptious delicacy at one more pintxos bar.

This time it was bread topped with mushrooms and prawns in a wealthy garlic sauce. And with such heavenly treats at nearly each bar, it’s simple to see why. 

San Sebastian, positioned within the coronary heart of the Basque area on Spain’s rugged northern coast, is the nation’s culinary capital.

The town is on the shores of the Bay of Biscay, simply 12 miles from the French border, and has all of the substances of a successful mini-break – tradition, historical past, lovely structure and wonderful coastal surroundings.

But it surely’s the meals that basically shines. Tapas – or pintxos (pronounced “pin-chos”) – are its forte, with institutions specialising in a single or two particular bite-sized dishes.

The slim streets of the town centre are lined with cosy eateries, the bars of which heave with platters piled excessive with delectable delights: skewers of grilled shrimps and pineapples, chewy calamari and spicy chorizo brochettes.

Inside, hungry people jostled for area, cramming collectively like sardines. And talking of sardines (kind of), don’t miss the salty anchovies on toast at Txepetxa.  

After a lot overeating,  I took an extended stroll alongside the promenade of La Concha, the crescent-shaped seashore within the coronary heart of the town.

Households and have been camped on the sand, having fun with the early autumn sunshine, whereas others swam and paddled within the shallows.

Throughout the bay was the small island of Santa Clara, its steep partitions rising 48m from the water the place as soon as upon a time, within the 1500s, locals who contracted the plague have been exiled to keep away from additional contamination. 


Vineyards and the River Ebro, La Rioja

Historians consider folks first settled on this space a number of centuries earlier than in 1181 and it modified fingers between numerous kings and kingdoms within the years that adopted.  

Earlier than lengthy, ideas as soon as once more turned to meals. However this time I attempted to study just a few of the secrets and techniques of Basque delicacies for myself, so I signed up for a category on the acclaimed Mimo cookery college.

Charismatic head chef Patricio Fuentes guided us by means of the method of manufacturing an beautiful five-course meal that you’d usually anticipate finding in a Michelin- starred restaurant.

Collectively we blanched an octopus, braised veal cheeks, pickled greens and whipped up beetroot foam earlier than producing the town’s well-known burnt vanilla cheesecake within the college’s swanky state-of-the-art kitchen. The entire thing felt slightly like an episode of MasterChef. 

After all, this a part of Spain isn’t just concerning the meals. The wine is fairly good, too. Barely an hour from the town, we discovered ourselves in La Rioja, the area famed for producing a few of the world’s finest vinos. 

Our first cease was the scenic Hacienda El Ternero the place we walked among the many seemingly infinite vineyards and stopped to take pleasure in a picnic of native cheeses and meats, washed down, naturally, with delicate and well-paired reds and whites. 

After that, we explored extra of the area, one among infinite valleys and sloping mountains that began the world- well-known tipple again in historic instances. By the 16th century, it had already established itself as one of many largest wine producing areas in Europe. And never a lot has modified since then. 

A stunning day was spent within the area’s capital, the medieval metropolis of Logroño, which is positioned on the banks of the Ebro River.

Information Marina, who leads journeys with meals and wine specialist tour operator SmoothRed, confirmed us round on a stroll that went from its tree-studded plazas to the 13th century Gothic San Bartolomé Church, the place nesting storks perched on the bell tower, by way of a few of her favorite eateries. 

Collectively we sipped small glasses of wine whereas nibbling on tasty treats particular to that specific place. “Every place is known for one dish so the concept is to hop between a number of till you’re full,” stated Marina. 

The following day we journeyed to the Gómez Cruzado vineyard, within the atmospheric city of Haro, the place we bought a vino masterclass surrounded by some 500 oak barrels piled excessive within the cellar. However tradition in these components is available in all sizes and styles. 

San Sebastian

Browsing at Zurriola

Again in San Sebastian I took the chance to delve even deeper by signing up for per week’s course at Lacunza, a language college the place native academics information freshmen into competent Spanish audio system. 

After difficult however fulfilling courses every morning, a busy calendar of occasions awaited each afternoon, aimed to not solely improve our newly discovered lingo but additionally reveal secret corners of the town: browsing, nature hikes, journeys to the theatre.

Collectively, college students of all ages, nationalities and talents launched into cultural excursions. My favorite, after all, being the pintxos bar crawl. We hopped from bar to bar, conversing with locals and devouring every of their legendary specialities (miss the insanely tacky risotto at Borda Berri at your peril).

Nicely, when in San Sebastian…


La Concha seashore

Ten issues you should do in San Sebastian

1 Take a stroll within the autumn sunshine alongside La Concha seashore.

2 Go to the island of Santa Clara. Take pleasure in its tiny seashore with views of the town after which stroll to the lighthouse.

three Be taught the lingo at Lacunza Spanish College (

four Drive by means of the gorgeous undulating valleys and vineyards of La Rioja.

5 Pattern the native tapas after which cook dinner up a storm on the Mimo Culinary College (

6 Bask in a spot of wine tasting at native wineries. Scenic Hacienda El Ternero is a superb place to begin.

7 Wander by means of the winding streets of La Rioja’s medieval capital, Logroño.

eight Go online at Zurriola.

9 Take one of many each day pintxos excursions, guided by specialists, visiting high bars and pairing the meals with native Rioja wine. Go to sansebastian

10 Stroll to the summit of Monte Urgull, topped by the low fortress partitions of the Castillo de la Mota. The views over the town are lovely.

Strategy to go

SmoothRed (020 8877 4940/ presents tailored journeys to San Sebastian and La Rioja. A four-day itinerary prices from £1,986pp together with flights from the UK, three nights in five-star lodging, transfers, some meals and a guided tapas tour.

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